Mousam River Railroad CarsMRRRCo #6, LHRR #12, #10
Box Cars, Flatbeds Scratch Built Completed: - At times, my biggest problem running purely American stock is the size. Most rail cars in the US are quite long, unlike their British cousins, which tend to be shorter. I really like the look of these shorter cars and sometimes it's what I want to run. Thus, in sticking with my railroad's basic premise, I have managed to find a true historical solution. |
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The Basis
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Baggage & Express car #8 from the Mousam River Railroad is currently on display at the Seashore Trolley Museum of Kennybunkport, Maine. It is a small, 2-axle, red box car which the museum restored sometime after acquisition. The car is originally from 1893 and had a sister (#6), which was scrapped right around 1900. #8 was still used, mostly for maintenance, until it was moved to the museum in 1947.
The car is 9' 9" tall by 12' 4" long with nothing more than hand brakes. I had taken photos of the car during my visit in 2024, which I found 3/4 of the way through the build. So, sadly, some details have been left out. Originally, I was going entirely off the top two photos from the museum. My intention is to build both #8 and #6. Since the museum refers to them as sisters, I expect they were identical. After that, I will likely build some flatbeds (or maybe they will be small gondolas) in the same style. These will be great for running round a small layout or even the Christmas tree. |
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Design Work
I started with a chassis model I found online. I can no longer find the original, I downloaded it months ago (probably late 2024), likely from Thingiverse. I cut the original model apart and just used part of it. I drew the frame and steps myself. Originally, the steps were too small, so I scaled them up to match USAT step size (roughly).
Next, I needed to build the main frame of the structure. So, connecting the two side frames was needed. To do this, I did two things: First, I started building a floor out of popsicle sticks while the first test was printing. I laid out 17 sticks side-to-side until I got the width required (155.6mm). Before I glued anything together I measured and found that I was missing 3mm, so I cut a piece and added it. Unfortunately, the result was 2mm too long, so I also had to cut one of the ends down to fit. Originally, I wanted to use styrene for the end "caps" of the frame. Which, I still could have done. But, Ultimately, I added a shelf to the end part so that it could support the floor, and this helped give the body-mount coupler a place to screw into. So, the entire visible frame is printed in PLA with a small piece of styrene in the center for structure.
Check out the photos for more details.
Next, I needed to build the main frame of the structure. So, connecting the two side frames was needed. To do this, I did two things: First, I started building a floor out of popsicle sticks while the first test was printing. I laid out 17 sticks side-to-side until I got the width required (155.6mm). Before I glued anything together I measured and found that I was missing 3mm, so I cut a piece and added it. Unfortunately, the result was 2mm too long, so I also had to cut one of the ends down to fit. Originally, I wanted to use styrene for the end "caps" of the frame. Which, I still could have done. But, Ultimately, I added a shelf to the end part so that it could support the floor, and this helped give the body-mount coupler a place to screw into. So, the entire visible frame is printed in PLA with a small piece of styrene in the center for structure.
Check out the photos for more details.
This first car (in the above photos) is my R&D figure-it-out-as-I-go car. So, it will not be the MRRR #8, instead it will remain a flatbed. Welcome to the railroad, LHRR flatbed #12! It still took me a while to actually finalize the design of the first flatbed. Along the way I rebuilt the entire floor, cut off and enlarged the steps, added the chassis' end details (in addition to the Kadee body-mounted couplers), and figured out how to use Woodland Scenic's dry transfer decals.
Now on to #8...
I had a second test-print chassis from before which I had to remove the steps from. Too small. I printed new, larger ones, to match #12, and glued them on. Then I started with the body. 1/8" ply and 1/16" ply make up the main structure. 1/16" ply is also used for the doors. More popsicle sticks are used for the floor.
Now on to #8...
I had a second test-print chassis from before which I had to remove the steps from. Too small. I printed new, larger ones, to match #12, and glued them on. Then I started with the body. 1/8" ply and 1/16" ply make up the main structure. 1/16" ply is also used for the doors. More popsicle sticks are used for the floor.
After gluing up the main body, I focused on the windows. I decided to 3D print them, as they are quite small. It took several tries, but eventually I ended up with something I am mostly happy with. They aren't a perfect model of the prototype's windows, but they will have to do, for the way I work.
All the scribe work on the sides of the car are done by hand. All I did was measure every 3mm and score with my Xacto. Painting was mixed in with building as I continued from here. I wanted to paint the window openings before gluing the PLA windows in place and I had to paint the chassis in several layers to cover the black. The doors on this car won't open. It'll all be for show. Thus, I've decided that this car will actually be #6. Maybe her sister, #8, will have doors that work.
All the scribe work on the sides of the car are done by hand. All I did was measure every 3mm and score with my Xacto. Painting was mixed in with building as I continued from here. I wanted to paint the window openings before gluing the PLA windows in place and I had to paint the chassis in several layers to cover the black. The doors on this car won't open. It'll all be for show. Thus, I've decided that this car will actually be #6. Maybe her sister, #8, will have doors that work.
