Painting Stock
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I paint in a semi-lazy way.
Stripping Old Paint Bachmann Cars - Bachmann Thomas & Friends Line - Re-Painting To prepare a car for repainting, clean it first & let it dry well. Prime I use spraypaint cans ("rattle cans"). Paint carefully, in thin layers. |
Tanker #646 disassembled and drying after being primed
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Detailing Cars
There are three categories I break detailing into for all of my equipment:
I suppose couplers are equally simple, but this is more a matter of operational success rather than just visual detail.
All of my stock has at least been through numbers 2 and 3 after I've purchased them. Everything on my railroad needs Kadee knuckle couplers and I check to make sure all details (grab rails, etc) are intact, too. I replace what I need to. This is all that was done to the following cars:
- Lettering
- Couplers
- Everything else
I suppose couplers are equally simple, but this is more a matter of operational success rather than just visual detail.
All of my stock has at least been through numbers 2 and 3 after I've purchased them. Everything on my railroad needs Kadee knuckle couplers and I check to make sure all details (grab rails, etc) are intact, too. I replace what I need to. This is all that was done to the following cars:
- SRRL #14
- BM #42890
- BAR #4067
BM #3327
When I got this car, I did have to buy some pieces, and knuckle couplers, but I also wanted to re-letter the car. Originally, it was lettered for the Virginian, which is not a part of my theme, so I re-lettered the car for Pan Am Railways. I bought the custom decals from G-Scale Graphics. I had to send them the files I wanted and they printed them for me. It worked OK. I didn't color match carefully enough, so the difference in color is obvious. This was my first re-lettering ever, so, please don't judge it too harshly!
When I got this car, I did have to buy some pieces, and knuckle couplers, but I also wanted to re-letter the car. Originally, it was lettered for the Virginian, which is not a part of my theme, so I re-lettered the car for Pan Am Railways. I bought the custom decals from G-Scale Graphics. I had to send them the files I wanted and they printed them for me. It worked OK. I didn't color match carefully enough, so the difference in color is obvious. This was my first re-lettering ever, so, please don't judge it too harshly!
BEFORE
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AFTER
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GZAX #556
Number 556 is a wood-sided boxcar formerly from the Pennsylvania Railroad. It got a fresh coat of paint & new water-slide decals for a totally new look.
Number 556 is a wood-sided boxcar formerly from the Pennsylvania Railroad. It got a fresh coat of paint & new water-slide decals for a totally new look.
BEFORE
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AFTER
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MPFX #1904
Ex-#3494 is a refer car that came to LHRR as Santa Fe stock. It, like those above, is in process of being re-painted and lettered.
Ex-#3494 is a refer car that came to LHRR as Santa Fe stock. It, like those above, is in process of being re-painted and lettered.
BEFORE
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NHSX #646
A tanker car.
A tanker car.
BEFORE (mostly)
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"Old Sacramento Waterfront"
This boxcar is an idea that I have which will make my partner very happy. Simply put, I want to recreate the below boxcar - found in Old Sacramento at the California State Railroad Museum - for the LHRR. The car is (by my best guess*) a 40' steel boxcar from the USAF.
*based on the museum's complete roster of equipment
This boxcar is an idea that I have which will make my partner very happy. Simply put, I want to recreate the below boxcar - found in Old Sacramento at the California State Railroad Museum - for the LHRR. The car is (by my best guess*) a 40' steel boxcar from the USAF.
*based on the museum's complete roster of equipment
I finally found a good deal on a boxcar that I can use to recreate this car, I got the model from a friend at the ARS 2025 Hobby Show at the Eastern States Exposition.
It needs some details replaced, along with new sets of wheels. Then a repaint, decals applied, and reapplying all details. The paint used was a white primer than Rust-Oleum's satin oasis blue.
This car is the LHRR's first ever steel boxcar. It's a USA Trains 40' Steel boxcar with a 6ft panel superior door. Item number is R19208A. They no longer make this particular road number. Luckily I was able to find what I needed because Charles Ro keeps great records! This PDF of past boxcars from them is amazing.
It needs some details replaced, along with new sets of wheels. Then a repaint, decals applied, and reapplying all details. The paint used was a white primer than Rust-Oleum's satin oasis blue.
This car is the LHRR's first ever steel boxcar. It's a USA Trains 40' Steel boxcar with a 6ft panel superior door. Item number is R19208A. They no longer make this particular road number. Luckily I was able to find what I needed because Charles Ro keeps great records! This PDF of past boxcars from them is amazing.
BEFORE
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There are several ways once can add lettering to their models. If you're in the US, Woodland Scenics is a good option for stock letters/numbers in different colors and sizes. G-Scale Graphics is a good option for custom pieces made to order. They offer a few different types of products, so modelers can get exactly the look they want.
Water-slide decals can be printed at home and are easy to apply, if you're careful. I've done this to the bulk of my cars, but I've also used G-Scale Graphics (and I have plans to buy some sheets of numbers from Woodland).
Water-slide Decals
Water-slide decal paper comes in a few different styles. First, you have to pick paper based on your printer (Inkjet or Laser). Then, one can choose from either transparent sheets or white. I use a brand called Hayes, which seems to work well & they have instructions directly on the packaging. Put simply, water-slide decals are designed, printed, cut out, put into water for under a minute, and then slide off their backing and applied to the model. This video helped me a lot with my decals.
A couple notes on water-slide decals:
Water-slide decals can be printed at home and are easy to apply, if you're careful. I've done this to the bulk of my cars, but I've also used G-Scale Graphics (and I have plans to buy some sheets of numbers from Woodland).
Water-slide Decals
Water-slide decal paper comes in a few different styles. First, you have to pick paper based on your printer (Inkjet or Laser). Then, one can choose from either transparent sheets or white. I use a brand called Hayes, which seems to work well & they have instructions directly on the packaging. Put simply, water-slide decals are designed, printed, cut out, put into water for under a minute, and then slide off their backing and applied to the model. This video helped me a lot with my decals.
A couple notes on water-slide decals:
- Don't rush the decal sitting in water. I rushed one of my biggest and ripped the thing trying to get it off the backing. Bigger decals seem to need more time than little ones.
- Use a Q-tip or cotton ball to firmly apply the decal. I like to work from the middle of the piece outward.
- I have an inkjet printer, so I sprayed the whole thing with three coats of clear matte spray paint to seal them before applying. This is Hayes package directions.
- Softening the plastic of the decals may be necessary around rivets or other decals on your equipment. I've tried hydrogen peroxide, but I'm not sure it worked well.
- When applying (and finalizing placement), go slow. While these are made of plastic, they can still be delicate.
Knuckle couplers are the American standard for connections between rail cars. Before them, link-and-pin was the typical connector. Model trains usually come with hook-and-loop style couplers, which work fairly well on level track, but not so well on track with bumps or grades. Obviously, they don't look as nice either. I choose to use the brand Kadee, which is fairly standard in the hobby.
Most of my Kadee rolling stock conversions are using their item number 831. (This seems to be the basic for most rolling stock.) The change is simple: Remove the hook-and-loop, install the knuckle. Some stock (such as my Forney) have Kadee parts made especially for them.
I also have a few sets of LGB couplers. They work OK, but they are a lot larger than the Kadees. I wouldn't recommend them unless a modeler is very financially strapped (in which case, maybe this isn't the hobby for that person...). More recently, I've decided that the LGBs will go on the Thomas & Friends equipment that I have. This way they can run with everything else, but the increased size looks a little less silly on the bulky locos and cars.
Kadee Coupler Gauge
This tool helps align the couplers to the proper height. It also has tools for track gauge, wheel gauge, proper scale car height, and uncoupler mounting jig.
This is the g-scale gauge (#880). It uses the new E-type coupler. This coupler is nice because the spring on the knuckle is hidden inside, making the piece look more prototypical.
Most of my Kadee rolling stock conversions are using their item number 831. (This seems to be the basic for most rolling stock.) The change is simple: Remove the hook-and-loop, install the knuckle. Some stock (such as my Forney) have Kadee parts made especially for them.
I also have a few sets of LGB couplers. They work OK, but they are a lot larger than the Kadees. I wouldn't recommend them unless a modeler is very financially strapped (in which case, maybe this isn't the hobby for that person...). More recently, I've decided that the LGBs will go on the Thomas & Friends equipment that I have. This way they can run with everything else, but the increased size looks a little less silly on the bulky locos and cars.
Kadee Coupler Gauge
This tool helps align the couplers to the proper height. It also has tools for track gauge, wheel gauge, proper scale car height, and uncoupler mounting jig.
This is the g-scale gauge (#880). It uses the new E-type coupler. This coupler is nice because the spring on the knuckle is hidden inside, making the piece look more prototypical.
Other Details
Whenever I buy second-hand rolling stock, the first thing I check when I open it is the details. I want to be sure it has everything it should and that nothing is broken. Things like steps, brake lines, grab rails, and the undercarriage can be delicate. These get replaced - either by ordering replacement parts or custom-fabricating my own - as soon as possible. Brands like Piko, Bachmann, and USA Trains are really good about keeping replacement bits available, but some other brands are not as good at it. One could also check online now, as many modelers will custom make & sell replacement bits and even upgrades for many common engines and cars.
